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As
Seen in The Wall Street Journal (September 10,2011)
THE NEXT
BIG THING: PERUVIAN FOOD
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| Make room Spain and
Korea, Peru is having its moment in the gastronomic sun.
Yesterday, a crew
of the culinary world's leading lights, including Denmark's René Redzepi,
France's Michel Bras and America's Dan Barber began descending on Lima
for a star-studded food festival. This week, Spain's Ferran Adrià, the
unofficial dean of global haute cuisine, will begin making a documentary
film about the food scene there. A huge restaurant from the nation's top
celebrity chef will open later this month in Manhattan.
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| Peruvian cuisine, the
result of a nearly 500-year melting pot of Spanish, African, Japanese and
Chinese immigration and native Quechua culture, is on the lips of top chefs
worldwide. Zagat Survey lists four times more Peruvian restaurants in New
York, San Francisco, Miami, Los Angeles, Boston and Philadelphia than it
did a decade ago. The cuisine's key ingredients (like aji amarillo, a yellow
chili) are now found at farmers' markets frequented by chefs, and sales
of pisco, Peru's fiery grape brandy, have doubled in the last five years.
Ceviche, the country's famous cured-seafood salad, abounds on menus, even
outside of Peruvian spots: Haute cuisine temples Le Bernardin and Daniel
both serve it. Peruvian chefs say they are able to entice investors to finance
homages to their national cuisine for the first time. |
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| Mr. Adrià said he became
intensely interested in Peru after members of his team went there and came
home raving about the food scene. He decided to take his first visit this
month to make a documentary about what he discovers. |
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| "I want the world to
know what's happening there. I'm excited about the flavors and the food,
and also the social web of the food, farmers, chefs and the people," Mr.
Adrià said.
Top chefs from around
the world will be gathering in Lima over the next few days for Mistura,
a 10-day food festival that began in 2008 and has become the most important
food event in Latin America, attracting a projected 300,000 visitors this
year. There they will discover a cuisine unique in Latin America. Peruvian
food features a lot of seafood, often prepared raw or cured; high acid—Key
lime juice and red onion are ubiquitous flavors; and a subtle hint of
spice provided by the fruity aji pepper, which leaves lips tingling. Peruvian
food also uses lots of potatoes—there are about 3,000 varieties
in Peru, where the tuber originated. Ceviche often features pieces of
either yellow potato or yam, and mashed potatoes are served cold, with
fish or chicken salad as toppings, in a dish called causa.
For diners unfamiliar
with Peruvian food, there's a gateway in the form of the Japanese influence
on the cuisine. Many of the best-loved recipes, including tiraditos (slices
of raw fish, dressed in flavorful sauce) and anticuchos (grilled skewers
of marinated meats and shellfish), will remind diners of their favorite
Japanese dishes, but with a twist. The country's influence in Peruvian
food is no surprise: There are an estimated 90,000 Japanese descendants
in Peru, a country of about 30 million people.
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| Many international
cooks have been drawn to Peru by Gastón Acurio, the country's top celebrity
chef, who is dedicated to proselytizing his national cuisine the world over.
The 43-year-old Mr. Acurio, who opened his first restaurant in Lima in 1994,
now has 32 restaurants in 14 cities worldwide.
Restaurateur Danny
Meyer, who helped shepherd Mr. Acurio into the Manhattan space vacated
by Mr. Meyer's Tabla restaurant, says he believes Peruvian food "will
be huge."
"This is the kind
of food you can do very frequently and feel virtuous, healthy and sexy,"
said Mr. Meyer, who had never eaten a Peruvian meal before dining at Mr.
Acurio's San Francisco restaurant last year.
Mr. Acurio has urged
industry friends, including Wylie Dufresne, Dan Barber and, this spring,
Mr. Meyer, to visit Peru, and given them a tour of his eateries, demonstrated
ingredients and sent them to the best restaurants he knows.
"The big mission is
to use Peruvian food as an instrument to put our culture in the world,"
Mr. Acurio said.
A 2009 food tour of
Lima made a profound impression on Mr. Barber, said the chef, who owns
Blue Hill in Manhattan and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills,
N.Y., and has cooked for the Obamas.
"I was thrilled by
the food, experiencing flavors I don't usually get to experience," Mr.
Barber said. "The raw fish stuff was brilliant, consistently incredibly
flavorful and refreshing and filling."
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| Daniel
Patterson, of Coi and Plum in the San Francisco Bay area, returned from
a trip down the Peruvian Amazon in January, full of inspiration. While Mr.
Patterson doesn't plan on recreating recipes—he only cooks with local
ingredients—he said the techniques he observed "will change me in
some way."
"The way they play
with acid and spice is very different," he said, noting the high acid
in some dishes.
Growing enthusiasm
for his national cuisine helped chef Ricardo Zarate achieve his dream
of opening a Peruvian restaurant after a decade of frustration. Mr. Zarate,
who went to cooking school in Lima, spent 12 years working in high-end
Japanese restaurants in London. Convinced that Peruvian food deserved
a place on the world stage, he began hunting for investors in 2001, but
couldn't convince enough deep pockets that it was the next big thing.
Finally, in 2009, while living in Los Angeles, he pulled together $30,000
and opened Mo-Chica, a stand serving six dishes in a market food court
in downtown Los Angeles.
After a nerve-rattlingly
slow three weeks, Mo-Chica was soon packed, won a slew of honors and attracted
a business partners and investors. In June, Mr. Zarate opened Picca, a
glamorous, loft-like restaurant serving Peruvian food with a heavy Japanese
accent in Los Angeles. He plans a host of other Peruvian restaurants.
"It all happened because
Peruvian food has a special flavor," he said.
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| Sea Bass Ceviche
with Leche de Tigre |
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| From chef Ricardo Zarate
of Picca and Mo-Chica in Los Angeles |
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Ingredients
For the sauce:
1/3 cup honey
4 cloves garlic
¼ red onion,
thinly sliced
4 sticks celery,
peeled
1/8 pound fresh
sea bass
1 cup lime
juice, key lime if available (make sure not to squeeze too deeply
into the lime, or the juice will taste bitter)
½ cup coconut
milk
1 tablespoon
aji amarillo paste
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For
the ceviche:
1 pound fresh sea
bass
½ red onion, sliced
1 tablespoon cilantro,
minced
Salt and pepper (to
taste)
Notes: Aji amarillo
is a yellow Peruvian chili paste found in Latin markets.
What To Do
1. In a blender,
purée all the sauce ingredients until smooth.
2. Sharpen
a long, thin knife and slice sea bass into 1/3-inch cubes.
3. Mix the
sauce with all the ceviche ingredients and let marinate for 15 minutes
before serving. Ceviche is best eaten immediately but will also be good,
though different, after an hour or two. Keep chilled at all times.
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